A day in Hampstead: the Heath, village streets and places I loved

Hello everyone! I wanted to talk to you about one of my favourite places in London: Hampstead.

The neighbourhood is in north London and, the first time you arrive there, the contrast is quite mad. You come from Soho, Marylebone or another very lively part of the centre and, about twenty minutes later, you find yourself among small streets, very handsome houses and Hampstead Heath. It almost feels like a mini Paris with a lot more greenery: there's this real neighbourhood life, cafés, shops, restaurants and pubs, but everything seems calmer without being sleepy. I loved it straight away.

Greg and I were staying near London Fields in Hackney. We hopped on the train without much of a plan — fairly standard for us — and before long we were at Hampstead Heath. From there, we just walked: past the swans, along Back Lane, in and out of shops, and into Aesop, where I somehow managed to fill rather more of my bag than expected. 😂

A morning on Hampstead Heath

Hampstead Heath

We started on the Heath. The first thing I photographed? A family of swans on the water, cygnets and all. Far too cute. We wandered for a while, picked up a coffee and found a spot in the sun. It’s huge, so you could spend a couple of hours here or make a whole morning of it.

If you fancy walking a bit further, head up to Parliament Hill for the view across London. This is also a lovely part of the city to explore without a plan. One minute you’re on the Heath; the next you’re wandering down a quiet residential street.

Flask Walk, Back Lane and Heath Street

This was my favourite bit after the Heath. Part of Flask Walk is pedestrianised, with independent shops, antiques, cafés and pubs to browse. Then take your time around Back Lane, Heath Street and the streets in between. I spent half the walk pointing out houses to Greg — ‘Look at this one!’ — so you can imagine how that went.

Burgh House

Burgh House sits on New End Square, just a few minutes from Flask Walk. The eighteenth-century house is now a museum and exhibition space, with a café downstairs. Admission is free, so it’s an easy stop if you’ve got a little time to spare.

My Hampstead favourites

Aesop Hampstead

I went into Aesop on Hampstead High Street with precisely zero Aesop products to my name. One very persuasive sales assistant later, I left with my first proper skincare routine. Apparently London was all it took.

She took the time to ask what I was already using and what my skin actually needed. I came away with a hand cream and a few things for my face:

• Amazing Face Cleanser
• Immaculate Facial Tonic
• Fabulous Face Oil
• Purifying Facial Exfoliant Paste
• In Two Minds Facial Hydrator.

I’ve written more about it in my oily skin routine if you’re curious which products I’m still using.

The Holly Bush

At the top of the sloping Holly Mount, The Holly Bush catches your eye with its flower-covered frontage. It’s one of the area’s old pubs and a good one to remember after a long walk on the Heath.

La Crêperie de Hampstead

For a little reminder of home, there’s La Crêperie de Hampstead. It’s been on Hampstead High Street since the 1970s, and its striped counter is hard to miss on a sunny day. A French crêpe stop in the middle of Hampstead still makes me smile.

Ginger & White

Tucked into Perrin’s Court, just off Hampstead High Street, Ginger & White does breakfast, toasties, cake and coffee. Exactly the sort of place I’d stop between one wander and the next.

Fodder

Fodder on Heath Street is full of ceramics, homeware, prints and pieces by British makers. You know what I’m like with a lovely little shop: I go in ‘just for a look’ and we all know where that leads.

Funny Weather

Funny Weather, near the Heath on Grove Terrace, brings together two things I’m very happy to spend time with: books and coffee. There’s fiction, non-fiction and a few seats for reading or working. You know I can rarely leave somewhere like that without a book.

Jin Kichi

Jin Kichi on Heath Street is known for yakitori, with sushi, tempura and udon on the menu too. One to keep in mind if your afternoon wander turns into dinner.

Why Hampstead has my heart

I can genuinely imagine living here. Hampstead is quieter than the London that first springs to mind, but it’s far from sleepy. There are cafés, restaurants, shops and pubs, with the Heath right there when you need some space. You get a proper neighbourhood feel without feeling miles away from the rest of London.

It reminds me a little of Paris, only much greener. I can picture having my regular coffee spot, heading out for a walk, staying local for dinner and going into central London whenever I fancy it. For everyday life, that sounds pretty close to what I’m looking for.

I’m planning a move to London, so I’ve started looking at neighbourhoods with that in mind. I’d love to grow Minuit d’Orsaythere, meet more brands, hotels, restaurants and independent spaces, keep writing the blog from London and make room for tattooing too.

If you’re making a day of it in London, you could start with my breakfast in Shoreditch, then have a look at my favourite restaurants in London. For a completely different evening, there’s SOMA in Soho. Or, for another neighbourhood wander, read about my visit to Modfather in Camden. I’ve collected more places in my London guide.

It's also the kind of neighbourhood that feeds my work as a web designer: I always notice the shop signs, the windows, the colours and all those little details that give a place its identity. That is exactly what I love to translate into the projects I create with Minuit d’Orsay. If you have a brand, hotel, restaurant or independent venue and you want to bring out all of its personality, you can write to me here.